Friday, March 9, 2012

Wind Wind Wind!

Wind Blog….

WIND!!!

All I could think of during the BIG BLOW in Puerto Escondido was just how I could ever describe the wind attacking us. It was a Déjà vu of last year’s wind there – adding to the anxiety. Howling through the Puerto Escondido “windows” to the north, it seemed to sweep through with gusto. The blustery blow built up quickly. And there is not a damn thing you can do about it, sit tight and wait it out and hope for no damage.

The Baja mountain spine became a virtual dust bowl, hazy and ugly. One of my favorite mountain formations above Puerto Escondido always appears to me like King Kong, climbing over the craggy, steep hills. He looked mean during the blow and I half expected him to come on down to the water’s edge and laugh at us. Or jump up and down and pound his chest.

The water turning out of the north inlets and coves in the bay seemed alive, dropping over the hills surrounding the bay and moving around, chopping the water, creating white caps throughout the 2-mile bay. Boats on balls would churn left, then right and pull hard on their balls. Dinghies were floating, tied aft, or, like ours, pulled up davits and flowing with ship’s movement. No one was out and about, no dinghies running. Just wind.

As we returned to the boat when the winds began, we were crossed by a gaggle of Kayakers, eleven in total, heading for shelter across the bay. They looked non-pulsed as they rowed by, watching us in a motorized- dinghy, becoming very wet as we made our way into the wind and back to the boat. Funny, the wind didn’t seem to bother them at all. But they were headed to get out of the wind, off their little boats and into someplace perhaps quiet – a home, a restaurant….

At night with no wind or noise reprieve, we could hear the gusts howl thru the masts, jangling the halyards that had come loose as well as the waves slapping the side of the boat. We caught site of 40 knots before I quit looking. If I don’t look, maybe it will stop. No such luck. It felt like a hurricane, sitting on a boat. Trying to sleep was impossible as the boat was constantly moving, riding the waves and opposing the air wind. All while pulling on the anchor ball, attached to us by less-than-two- inch line. Sitting in the cockpit, always aware if the line pops what to do. Start the engine, hope it starts, pull away from the ball although more likely dropping off the ball rapidly and into boats near us….all a very frightening thought. I can tell you, all my nails were nubs before the first night was over!

So there’s wind for you. Every sailor wants some wind to make the boat go; but not too much and perhaps in the right direction, too. Seems we usually catch it on our nose and Bill threatened to change the name of Tanque de Tiburon to “Weathervane”. But Mother Nature has a funny, cruel side at times. Even though we watch weather predictions and try to find the perfect sail weather, you just can’t fool Ma Nature. She laughs and says, “Perhaps those sailors need a little bit of humbling today” and throws some not-so-nice weather our way.

Isla Coronado to Puerto Escondido



BLOG #3

27 FEB – 4 MAR 2012



27 FEB 2012 Isla Coronado to Puerto Escondido


Bill at the bow as we approached Isla Coronado; the Puerto Escondido Singlar marina (most boats are in the bay on a mooring ball); JUCE' Bruce and Judy taking advantage of an opportunity; The Huichl Indian beaded shark and lunch in Loreto; Aboard JUCE for cocktails....









Hearing the weather forecast for the mid-sea, we headed for Puerto Escondido, the “Hidden Port” and a safe place to wait out some windy weather – a short 20 mile (3-4 hour at 4-5 mph) run. We left the beautiful little island at 0830 and arrived PE at 1430. The run was across the Loreto Bay and for about 2 hours, we had 30 knots of wind on our nose. As soon as we rounded to enter PE, the wind dropped dramatically. We found s/v JUCE, Bruce and Judy, were already hunkered-down in the bay and looked forward to visiting with them. We made to a ball just west of JUCE and Bill caught ball #75 and we made preparations to dinghy to the marina and check in with Marina Singlar…and have a cold beet at Pedro’s Porto Bello restaurant there.


27 FEB – 5 MAR 2012 - Puerto Escondido!

Awaiting the BIG WIND, we spent a few days prepping the boat, provisions, banking and searching for parts in Loreto. We had cocktails aboard s/v JUCE, dinner at PortoBello’s a few times and caught a ride with a friend of JUVE’, Dale, now a tent guy (as his boat-mate kicked him out, divorcing), into Loreto for lunch and provisions. We also met a new boat, s/v Shannon, a couple from Vancouver Island, Canada – Cathy and Carolyn. Along with JUCE, we had some great visits and chats, boat discussions, life discussions and just a few beers and margaritas. On our final evening and when the winds gone, we made a dinghy ride to shore, giving Shannon a lift, and had a parting dinner at Pedro’s. JUCE is heading home via San Carlos for Bruce to have knee #2 done in Colorado and Shannon will continue south at a slower pace than us – we may meet up again in La Paz.

Then, the winds came – totally messing with our minds and testing our real boat mentality. Throughout the ordeal, I could hear voices throughout the bay. “Please, stop the wind”, “why are we here…?”….”I want to go home!”… it was enough to drive any sane person bonkers…howling, howling, howling non-stop. Note to self, “BLOG on wind”.

The PE marina – but most boats are out on mooring balls. This Huichl Indian beaded shark is a a work of art, still in progress by a waiter in Loreto – which he hopes to sell for $8000!

We went into the marina Friday AM to get the “parts” Omar mailed us. And before the wind kicked in, we did a walk to look at a local Gringo “picnic” beach site at the government API (old marina) site – not impressive. After, we stopped at Pedro’s for a cold beer. About half way thru the beer, we watched the white caps start rolling across the bay. OOPS!! We jumped up, headed to the dinghy and got a very damp/wet dinghy ride back to the boat –in the nick of time.

Bill did an exceptional job attaching our mooring ball to the boat and we sat tight – but ever-worried. As we fell off the ball last year there, during high winds at Loreto Fest, we were pretty paranoid about having a similar incident. We arrived on a Monday and the winds kicked in on Friday, right on schedule. We sat on the boat for 48 hours, watching 30-40+ knots knock us, and everyone else, around our respective anchor balls. PE is not known for well-maintained balls – and we also noted on check in that many balls were missing! Luckily, we escaped escaping this year. But we did stand watch and Bill also reinforced the pennant, adding several anti-chafing leathers. With the wind and boat movement, neither of us ever really got any sleep despite a semi-watch schedule.

However, one boat, s/v Susie, did come off her ball. Unfortunately, the owner had left overnight to take his wife to catch a bus in Loreto. Several of us were advised to “keep an eye on her” and we did, all through the night. At 0530, Bill woke for his “watch” and I went below to catch some shut-eye. I had used Susie’s solar deck lights as a point to ensure we had not popped off our ball, and the lights were there at 0530. At 0630, and as the sun rose, Bill and another boat noted Susie was – GONE! Searching the 2-mile wide bay, we saw no signs of her. We looked for a mast out of the water – nothing. How had we all missed her un-manned and ghostly escape? Shortly thereafter, a radio report, a sighting of her 2 miles across the bay in a cove called Cocktail Cove; she was sited, just sitting there near the mangroves. I think one boat (in Spanish) may have felt her slide past, perhaps a nudge, a call for “help” and reported she was adrift. The Singlar marina sent out a marina panga as soon as they could and towed her out to a new ball and tied her up. What a surprise the owner had on returning that day! She appeared fine – and the fact she did not run into anyone of the 20+ boats at balls is truly amazing. We were right in her path and she silently slipped past us. Whew.

Once the wind stopped, Bill was able to replace the raw water pump and impeller that Omar had sent to us. The delivery system worked well; he sent it via Aero Calafia from Guaymas to Loreto, friend Pedro also has a restaurant at the Loreto airport so he picked it up for us! Omar is such a sweetheart; he even added an extra impeller, some tape, etc. We’ll arrange thru Joan and Tom to get him paid.

So – still heading south, hoping for La Paz this week. Our musician friend, Mark Mulligan(www.markmulligan.com) from San Carlos, is having a concert in La Paz March 13th and we are planning to attend! Have old friends awaiting us there.

Monday, February 27, 2012

Santa Rosalia heading south

BLOG #2 19-24 February 2012
New Pics!



















The Baja Ferry departing Santa Rosalia right behind our slip; Linda on Shell Beach/playing with her shells at Chivato; Cruiser's Shrine/tree and beach art? at San Juanico; dinghy'ing to shore; Bill with ours and s/v Gosling's shrine shells, Linda's Hair Dryer, Bertha's restaurant and Weather-Guru Gary's casa at Burro Cove and cocktails with Jinx and Mad dog off m/v High Jinx....











19 FEB 2012 Santa Rosalia to Punta Chivato via Craig’s Channel

The Singlar marina at Santa Rosalia is pretty desolate – 4 empty boats, one for sale and one fill of pelican poop. We got up early to depart the 27 miles to Punta Chivato and not a soul in site – except the Baja Ferry behind us. The weather window looked good for heading south. So Bill shoved us off as we backed out and we exited the marina, out the quay wall opening and headed south. A clear, sunny day at 66 degrees and the water, also 66. Bill hauled up the main sail so we would look like a sailboat.

The fastest route is between the Baja and San Marcos Island, through Craig’s Channel – a 5 mile, 16-18 foot deep channel. Some reefs on either side, so watching the depth and the way points are key to NOT finding the reef intimately! We did well! Arrived Chivato at 1600, dropped a hook easily in about 12’ of water off the beach full of Gringo homes. In the bay with us was s/v Saggitaire, who we met in Santa Rosalia at Singlar as well as s/v Silmare. The anchorage stayed quiet and great sleeping.

This is the shell beach spot! We dropped the dinghy in the water the next morning and made a shelling expedition to shore. What finds! I’ll be making jewelry and painting mermaids for years….

21 FEB 2012 Chivato to Burro Bay, Bahia Concepcion

Having already bussed High Jinx’ supplies to them from Santa Rosalia, we weren’t in a big hurry to get to Burro Cove. Looking at a good passage, we pulled up the anchor at Chivato and crossed to Bahia Concepcion anyway. A 21 mile leg ahead, we headed out about 9 AM. We were able to sail well for about an hour, then lost our wind. We started at sunny and 62 degrees and the water up to 69 degrees.

We arrived into Burro Bay and found m/v High Jinx (Jinx and Mad Dog) nestled under the cliff by Baja Mexico’s Highway 1. This is a main route on the Baja and full of traffic – mostly buses and big transport trucks, some with double trailers. The winding roads near the cliffs make it a fairly dangerous road and we feel safer out in the ocean! We had to re-anchor once as the bay has a shallow end. The beach is full of Gringo “huts” – some pretty elaborate, with palapa rooves and some double storey and/or attached to RV’s and trailers. This is where Gary-the-weather-Guru hangs out, in his beach shack. After his morning weather report, he broadcasts “Amazing Grace” over a speaker into the bay – very nice touch. There is also no cell coverage in the Bay – so we remain out of contact during our stay.

Settling in for the evening, we dropped the dinghy off the davits and went to m/v High Jinx for a drink, then to Bertha’s restaurant ashore for dinner. Bill had a great Pescado de Ajo (fresh garlic fish). We crept back to the boat after dark. Bill lit the engine and the generator to check things out and noticed a BIG leak in the engine room. Long storey short, we had a leak in the raw water pump and a broken impellar. Lucky he knows engine stuff! We stayed an extra night in Burro Cove and Bill borrowed Mad Dog’s car for a run to Santa Rosalia to find a part – which he did. I stayed aboard to watch the ship and caught up with some projects. I also made a run in one day with Jinx for provisioning in Mulege, about 8 miles north of Burro Cove; we had breakfast at a delightful hotel (homey, many backpackers) – Las Casitas, I think, and hit several grocery stores and the “dollar” store, as well as an art show with mostly Gringo paintings, jewelry and shell work.

24 FEB 2012 Burro Cove to Santo Domingo, Bahia Concepcion

After a minor engine tweaking, we headed out of Burro Cove about 9 AM to make the run easily out of Bahia Concepcion. It is a 10 mile run to the entrance where a small beach area makes a good overnight before the next leg of the travels. The engine ran well with no leaks noted. A smooth day, we relaxed and enjoyed the ride….watching the engine temperature carefully. The anchorage is very shallow and we noted we were not able to cut the corner, seeing very shallow areas. We found a good holding in 10 feet of water – and were joined later by two boats for the night. A “navy” shower and hair wash made us both feel a little more human. I use the Ma Nature hair dryer! Then a dinner of panko’d chicken, fresh broccoli and curried couscous. OK, we also ate some greasy, fresh tortilla chips I found in Mulege….but yummy.

25 FEB 2012 Santo Domingo to San Juanico

Up early, before sunrise, we hopped out of bed at 0630, started the engine and pulled out of the bay to round the peninsula end. Coffee and breakfast came later! At the tip, Linda noted the temperature gage rise rapidly; Bill had started to use the water maker, which caused a drop in the priming water in the raw water pump (are you asleep yet?) and the engine to over-heat. So once that was solved, back on the road south. Both the main sail and the jib are up, giving the engine a little help. Winds are light so we may have to do more motoring to get to San Juanico – a 47 mile run.

On our way to Puerto Escondido to wait out a wind and perhaps some repairs!

Linda and Bill

Saturday, February 18, 2012

2012 First Leg


Tanque de Tiburon at Santa Rosalia's
Singlar Marina.

The boat's ready, we need to hit the road.
Having moved the boat to Marina San Carlos in July, 2011, it was time to flee the safe harbor and head to the big, scary ocean. All our old boat friends are scattered and off cruising already - we're late! S/v Sea Bourn is already in La Cruz. s/v Yemaya is in La Paz as is s/v JUCE. S/v Gosling is half way to El Salvador. We're late! And Old S/v Summer Wind is sold. S/v Freedom of Kirkland is in Z'huat....we really miss the old gang! But we did get a good visit with m/v Venture Forth. So many are either for sale, sitting and waiting...the cruiser community seems to have a 3-4 year cycle and we are seeing transitions in cruiser faces.

15/16 Feb: Following a dinner with Tom and Joan on Valentine's Day at their home in San Carlos, Tom returned to the boat early Feb 15th and shoved us out of the marina, en route to the Baja. We made a short stop in Algodones Bay for an anchoring shake-down. Later in the afternoon and with a good weather window predicted, we actually set sail to the Santa Rosalia.

Tom at the dock and happy Bill at the helm.







After a beautiful 3-hoursail...we lost the wind and turned on the motor. Later in the evening, the wind picked up
and, of course on our nose, and we saw 32 knots through the night. And it was cold! We bundled in our layers. No sea life to see, either. Just
dang wind.

What we anticipate as usually 70+ miles in about 18 hours turned out to be a 24 hour run with 4-6 foot seas and wind on the nose, all night. It was a very long night and Bill did most of the driving, giving the auto-pilot (Otto) a rest with the turbulent seas and wind. But basically not sleep for either of us.

We arrived in a rain drizzle that actually cleaned off the boat somewhat and as we pulled into a slip at Marina Singlar about 1600, there was actually a double rainbow out over the ocean beyond the bay!! So we take that as a good omen for the rest of the trip.

After a hot shower, we walked into town to Terco's for Xochitl soup and a cold
beer. Santa Rosalia is a lovely town and everyone seems so happy, busy and friendly.

We stumbled back to the boat and hit the sack by 2030...and slept to 0600, like zombies.

The next AM, the northern Baja ferry pulled in behind us. Here's Linda at the dock by our boat and the ferry behind.



17/18 Feb: Relaxing, refueling and refreshing ourselves, we stayed in Santa Rosalia and extra day. Today we took the bus to Mulege to deliver boat parts
(that would be propane tanks and Bourbon...) to m/v Hi Jinx (owners from Bisbee). Their boat is down in Burro Bay and Jinx and Mad Dog have a car, met us in Mulege, gave us a driving tour, had carnitas for lunch then they drove us back to our marina - about 38 miles. Nice to finally see Muilege - a cute town!

Tomorrow we head around Punta Chivato.
PS My new mint plant and herbs are sprouting! Gardening aboard! Mint is for Mojitos....

Jan Feb 2012 Sea of Cortez



After a rough 2011, we're finally back
at sea! Feels good to be back on the water. It's been a colder winter in Sierra Vista and we actually had to wear some winter clothes for a month!

Between 2011's sailing season with the numerous boat problems, then a fire in June in Sierra Vista and Linda's new knee #2 in November, the year just went away. Hoping for a very different 2012. But we're up and running and en route south....

The big news is that daughter Cristy (in PHX) announced her engagement to Tony and they are planning an October wedding in Hawaii! Looking forward to helping her plan and attending the BIG event.




Happy Cristy and Tony!








Following Linda's excellent Physical Therapy, taxes and house prep, we made a run to San Carlos, bringing Bob and Donna Pfaff down to surprise Joan and Tom in San Carlos. Had a great week and Bob said "I hate this place" as he ordered another cerveza. Had a fun-filled week with a Mark Mulligan concert included. We hosted happy hour on the boat for grins, too.


Joan, Donna,Bill, Bob and Tom aboard Tanque de Tiburon.






Taking Pfaff's back to the house to house sit for a month, we did our final packing and returned with a loaded car - new head, TV and a water heater tank for Tom and Joan...and more shoes for Linda (just kidding). It took almost two weeks to get systems up and ready. Bill installed a new head, fixed the dinghy engine and consulted Omar to make sure our diesel was working well. We visited Club de Capitanes frequently for draft Chope (Negro Modelo) and Mike's best pizza. Had several great evenings with old and new friends - including Mac & Carole from m/v Venture Forth. A new treat was experiencing real Mexican coffee for dessert at Blackie's. Think: coffee, kahlua, tequila, sugar, ice cream....flaming! Yum.




Mac and Carole after Mexican coffee....



Now, off to Sea....








Thursday, April 21, 2011

We are still alive and sailing!




Bill at Sea and Fran"s 60th BD party in San Carlos...





Yes we are still alive and well and sailing in Mexico this winter.
We apologise for the long delay in updating our Blog.
It has been a most interesting, eye-opening, expensive
and educational year....
we started in San Carlos with Tom and Joan, to include thew Soggy Peso Bar!
So far, the Sail Log is close to 30 pages long - which I will not post
on the Blog! However, if anyone wants to take a peak at details,
let us know by email and we will be glad to foward a copy as an
attachment. Perhaps if you are having trouble sleeping....
In summary. we left San Carlos in December and decided to head
straight south to Mazatlan and try to get into warmer waters faster.
Our first phase included broken generator, malfunctioning main sail
boom and no engine due to a cracked injector mount. We limped into Topolobampo for initial repairs. On to Mazatlan, we lost the engine
yet again and sailed on jib only for 113 miles and being towed and
pushed into Marina Mazatlan for repairs of everything. Thanks to
s/v's Gosling, Optical Illusion and Java for big time assist... and to Total Yacht Works for allowing us to earn one of their hats....
Feeling good, we continued south toward San Blas and then on to
La Cruz, with a few stops here and there en route. We enjoyed
La Cruz again and had much socialization with cruiser friends there.
While in La Cruz, we did take a two-week hiatus and bussed home
for a few things. The Mexican bus was interesting, not too bad and
we were on the cheapest one due to our route to Guaymas where the
car was. Thanks again to Tom and Joan for assisting us, babysitting
the car, picking us up and providing a bed and a hot shower!
From La Cruz, we took the "new" jump south toward Bara de Navidad
and Las Hades.
Tsunami!
We met up with s/v Gosling in Tenecitata and "rode out" the Japan
Tsunami in the bay there. Saw some amazing surges in out out
with 10' tide changes and 5 minute ins and outs. Felt as if we were
in a bath tub whirling around. We had actually left for the day as
the water surge was due at mid-day. We returned about 3 only to have
the surges strike at 4:30. A few boats had to quickly move as the
water dropped so low so fast. Much debris was washed from the
estuary jungle and the next morning, the bay was full of cactus,
branches, leaves...no crocs or snakes seen. I really worried the
snakes might crawl into the chain locker and rot....nope.
We enjoyed an intersting lagoon anchorage in Barra with Fran
and Jean-Guy (s/v Gosling) touring us around and showing us
the "Barra Ropes". We attended St. Patrick's Day in Melaque nearby.
Their patron saint is St. Pat, so it was a big deal, fioreworks, carnaval,
rodeo and all. We also spent a day at the Grand Bay Resort at the
luxury pool, thanks to friend's in their marina.
From Barra, we headed south toward Las Hades with several
intermmitent stops. Las Hades is a pretty spot and a nice anchorage
under the med-style resort on the hill, where Bo Derek's "10" was
filmed. I did laundry there at $10 a set - yikes! Our only disappointment
there all the air polution from the bay industry in nearby Manzanillo.
It was always smoggy. But we did enjoy the nice pool at the resort.
Heading back north toward La Cruz, we broke an engine mount. Bill did an amazing Mexi-fix and we limped into the marina and got a repair. Coming and going around Cabo Corrientes was pretty good as it goes there. The plan was to head to La Paz and the Baja but with a short weather winow, we ended up back into
Mazatlan after a stop in San Blas for laundry, fuel and showers. I swear, there's a magnet in Mazatlan. We had a little wind on the docking and had to shift slips - but had S/v Seabourn assisting along with the marina crew. Hum, I don't think we had anything to fix there this time, did we? No, we but noticed a tear in our Genoa so we put up our Jib and stowed the Genoa for future repair or replacement in San Diego.
Next stop: La Paz. We decided to go straight to the Baja, through the Cerralvo channel and into La Paz. The trip started with 20 miles of pea soup fog. Used the radar and the foghorn and it was eerie. After that, pretty benign until we hit the Cerralvo channel, north of Muertos. Had 26 knots and some seas at the entry, then it calmed somewhat. But the exit and through the San Lorenzo channel was a hair-raiser. Bill saw 42 knots of winds and we had 8-10' waves crashing the bow. And followed by the Baja Ferry and another large yacht - who both passed us as we tossed along. SLOB. The San Lorenzo Overnight Bash. whew, was glad to get into Palmira and a quiet slip. Then slept like babies t night!!
From La Paz, the plan is to go north to Puerto Escondido and Loreto Fest and then back to San Carlos, then home by early May. What a winter, so far!!