22-28 December 2008

La Paz Navidad 2008

Happy Holidays from Baja California Sud en La Paz! We are still sitting in our slip on Dock #5 and enjoying the weather, exploring La Paz and a few holiday festivities. The Malecon lights on the palm trees and Christmas festivities around town have made it delightful. We found a local concert on the cathedral steps last Monday evening and enjoyed the music school's traditional Christmas celebration, including a Nativity enactment by the teens. We sat on the square and watched as we ate our street burritos.

We have walked and walked and walked, trying to burn off a few calories and stay in shape and enjoy the "ambiance". Many of the stores have special Christmas toy sections, the same as the states. It's fun to watch the kids get excited over all the new toys. One thing we have noticed in Mexico is that in all of the Nativity scenes set-up, before Christmas there is no baby Jesus. And he appears on Christmas morning!

The scene set up at the Govenor's Palace includes elephants and pigs - along with the usual cows and donkeys.

On Christmas Eve, we taxi'd to the other marina for the annual potluck/picnic. Lots of folks there - the boaters and the landlubbers. There was a nice variety of potluck foods, from fresh caught tuna to brownies. I made a rice dish/salad and took some of my cowboy cookies.

Then we walked to Ana and Steve's and ended up staying all evening, playing games and eating Christmas tamales. We walked back along the Malecon after midnight and watched and listened to fireworks and, perhaps, guns - and recieved some Feliz Navidad hugs from some local folks. It was an hour walk but pleasant. The side gates to our marina and hotel were closed and we had to walk a bit further to slip throught the main gate. My feet were tired!!

FOOD!

We have had several very wonderfu; meals this week! On Christmas, we went to Tres Virgins with two other couples from the dock - we were invited by Milagro, Jo and Lance, who were friends of Earl and Maria's. I ordered a "traditional American turkey" dinner. It was more gourmet then traditional and served very elegantly. A very nice setting out on a patio area in what used to be the Governor's mansion - apparently they had just moved there from another location. Nice dinner and nice people.

For our Fifth anniversary on the 27th, we went back to Buffalo BBQ as Bill was needing some more ribs. They cook them on an open mesquite grill and the smells are just wonderful. Also seated on a patio area, we enjoyed the cooler weather and actually wore sweaters and windbreaker! And was glad to have it for the walk back.

Chores!

Last Friday was a work day for both of us. I did five loads of laundry - no easy task hauling the bundles to the marina laundromat. Bill waxed and polished the boat. he borrowed a soft dinghy and was able to scoot around the boat. The wood is all oiled and looks great - but will give it another coat. Saturday we hitched a ride to town and Bill bought two more boat batteries and replaced them. I never realized just how heavy those things are! Solid lead. So hauling the old ones up the ramp at low tide was an interesting task. And in and out of the boat, steps, ladder, etc...Bill earned his brownie points, as usual. Today, he replaced the fuel cans on the newly painted rails and took a can down to get gas. And, he made the ice run. I made the bed, breakfast, lunch, dishes, cleaned a head and the steps, oiled my dishrack and changed the CD's as Sirius is acting up again. Now, off for a walk before shower, dinner and dark. Maybe we will watch a movie tonight?

I will try again to add a few pics but the blog is being stubborn at accepting them today. Cross your fingers.

All is good! Have New Year's party invitation and then we may head out to an island or two for a few days or so.

~ Nurseshark and Tanker6

Gosh, it looks like our Marina Palmira free shuttle might need a transplant? That's the La Panga restaurant behind the diagnosticians....

Here's Sharktank, our little dinghy, on a side trip off the big boat.

Our Christmas mast in the salon!

Here is a pescadero camp on an island we anchored overnight. The local fishermen often will camp out in groups overnight while out fishing. Sometimes there will be several pangas (their fishing boats) at a camp overnight.

Antes de Navidad en La Paz…

‘Twas the night before Christmas when all through La Paz
Not a sailboat was cruising, not even sea hogs.
The stockings were hung by the masts and the rails.
In hopes that San Nicholas would soon bring new sails.

The salty dog in his watch cap with his wench for a crew
Had just finished a nightcap of homemade boat brew.
When out on the dock there arose such a clatter!
They sprang to the deck to hear something go “splatter”.

He threw open the hatch and fell over the gear,
His bare feet a flutter, his head full of beer.
He cursed like a sailor In spanglish and more.
As he climbed over the toe rail to settle a score.

Then what to his blurry eyes should appear?
But a miniature panga! With eight tiny dolphin to steer!
A little old pescadero so lively and quick!
They knew in a moment It must be Saint Nick?

El pescadero halted his dolphins and threw up a line
To the sailors on dock, mouths still agape and in shock!
Though tired and hung-over, the cruisers they knew,
Were witnessing history - even as the wind blew!

Sitting aboard with his tackle, tequila and rellenos
Sat Panga Juan! and his pescados frescos!
Dressed all in yellow from his head to his shoes,
San Juan was apparently spreading the news.

“Senior Santa – he no come!” said Juan as he rose.
“Instead, I bring fish, fair winds and no snow!
My dolphins, they guide you to best places to be,
Where there are beaches and sunshine and the beer…almost free!”

Packages from home with cards and new CD’s, lights for the boats, fruitcake and cheese;
The sailors, now happy and forgiving the noise, gave San Juan many hugs full of joy.
He unloaded his fish and a cooler of beer, bottles of tequila …and the rum brought a cheer!
Returning to his boat and to the dolphins gave a nod, he rose out of site and declared

“Feliz Navidad!”

~ author: Linda

A few more pics! First is Lucy, the dock mascot, a very large, noisy and obnoxious goose. She begs for food, loves tomatoes and cucumbers. And we were warned NOT to feed her ON the boat or she will be your friend for life.
Here is Ana and Steve, Ginger's friends who live here and have been most gracious in adopting us, giving us insider tips. And is the best guide - she is biligual and knows where the best bargains, food, the ceramic pottery makers and the weaver are. Very sweet folks - thanks, Ana!

Here I am on a walk to the north of our marina. The malecon (boardwalk) is at least 12 feet wide in most places and very well manitained...all along the ocean.

Here was one of the dolphins we sighted at sea, playing with the boat.

And of course, the galley and a few Christmas decor items out. Not much storage!!!

Boat Chores

My one and only attempt to make something for Christmas...a mess!

Happy Holidays to all! It sounds very cold up north where all the relatives and friends are - even some snow due at our home in Sierra Vista! Our house-sitters also have our dog, Red, who has wiggled his way into sleeping with them (thanks Nancy and Steve). They have tucked the tortoise in for a long winter's nap and the Koi are also probably in winter-mode. But we hear (the brother weather report) snow in Vegas, LA and lots in Oregon, too. Will make a pretty Christmas for all. Donna and Bob, due back to Arizona in January, were at 8 below zero, 39 below with the wind chill near Fargo, ND. BBbrrrrr!

As the holiday festivities continue here, there was a small drop in tempurature to make it a balmy 70-80 degrees, with nice breezes and overcast. La paz is still gearing up with shoppers, special toy stores and decorations. I will miss the lighted palm trees down the malecon after the holidays!

Chores: What do we do on the boat all day? Boat stuff! Routine cleaning and upkeep takes more time than it would seem. Doing anything in the galley is more difficult with digging through the refrigerator/freezer, finding where a specific canned good is stowed, lighting the stove or oven and doing dishes after a meal. Even turning on the microwave, toaster or the coffee maker involves making sure the 110 electric is on first. My cabinets are limited and I try to keep the most-used items up front so I don't have to dig so far! It seems to be getting easier - or I am adapting. Making the bed in a corner is also frustrationg but think I have a better sytem now. I am working on reupohlstering a cover for the mattress.

Bill spent the past two days doing final wood sanding and polishing the bright work (the stainless steel parts). We hope to start the teak oiling process today.

Yesterday, I sorted the V Berth forward and found some little bugs in the bags inside the tubs. So even though it is triple-sealed, I still have to watch it. I had to clean out an entire tub and re-pack - also reloacting a few items to the galley for current use. The V Berth, although fitted as a gues cabin, is my storeroom/pantry. Everything from sails, to sewing machine, soup to nuts, linens, art supplies, luggage/bags and paperwork. It's very full! (crammed is a better word - but organized now!)

Today I will attempt to make some of the Cowboy Cookies - a family recipe Marti forwarded. It will be the second time I have used the oven! I wanted to try Marti's great chocolate cake in a cup but the items are buried so will have to dig them out after I do the breakfast dishes! I will probably use the cookies for give-away treats so i won't be tempted to eat too many. Bill doesn't do sweets.

Dinner Date: Friday evening, we met two couples for drinks and dinner. We started at the Bismark Cafe on the Malecon. They have huge margaritas - but we stuck to beer to keep my tummy happier. We listened to a singer who did a few sad love songs and then a mariachi group of eight played - with horns, big guitars and all! From there, we walked to a BBQ ribs place. What a treat! I had the pork baby back and Bill had the beef ribs - all cooked on a grill on the patio where we sat, under the stars. It was heaven - great food and we'll go back. The other couples shared a flan dessert, that was presented beautifully and served with ice cream. The toilet (bano) was interesting: in the ladies (Mujeres) room, there are two toilets side by side. No partitions. Kinda of reminded me of the old military barracks heads....

It's the weekend before Christmas so we are trying for some tickets to a concert. The web for local information is http://www.rozinlapaz.com/

~ Linda

A few pics! The first is Tanque de Tiburon anchored in San Juanico Bay; we dinghy'd to shore to explore. The second is at a lovely old hotel in Loreto. And third is us in our slip in La Paz; note our blue mast to the right of the red pirate ship.

Shopping in La Paz

We hope any questions you may have about sailing or La Paz, you will pass on to us. That way,we can search for someone who knows anything about sailing or La Paz....seriously, we are new at this whole thing so it is exciting and we learn more and more everyday. So far, we have figured which end of the boat is forward and made it head south and arrive in one piece. We are now working on the touristy part of exploring La Paz. (P.S. Bill is an excellent sailor, mechanic, wood refinisher and general fix-it guy; Linda is working on the cooking and cleaning part and has mastered the shopping end of the deal.)

Morning Net: Channel 22 at 8 AM is the routine local American cruiser's report, or "net". It is hosted by a variety of volunteers from all the marinas here. Sometimes it is boring but there is always a weather report, rides and crew, swaps and trades (no sales between Americans in Mexico), a few jokes and requests for information or assistance. Parties, pot lucks and meetings are also announced. It really is a good connection and the cruiser community is pretty awesome!

Shopping: While Bill supervised woodwork and sanded, Linda ventured out today to find a post office and meander through town toward the CCC Grocery store. The first taxi driver was a young man who did not know La Paz well. That's ok - with the trusty map, she showed him where she needed to go! Cost: $5. The taxi ride home from CCC - quite a bit further, was about $8. In between, she walked 10,000 steps, all over town! The post cards and letter cost the same to mail via Mexcian postal service - about $1 each. For those sent, let us know when they arrive! In the future, we can buy US stamps and send mail back with cruisers when they return to the states.

The CCC is a large grocery that, as many do here, also includes clothes, shoes and linens. They have a limited selection for Americans, like skim milk and some cheeses. She also found some chocolate chips and saltines to make the Cowboy Cookies, an old family recipe sent from sister Marti. Thanks!

Weather: It was a overcast, cool day and felt perfect for walking and boat work. Shorts are perfect but not hot. The nights are cooler, drops to 60 degrees and just feels great sleeping with the gentle breeze rocking the boat. Our wind generator can be annoying but we certainly know when the wind picks up as it starts "thumping".

Routines and food: Dinner was made easy after unloading groceries, cleaning veggies and sorting and stocking, we did the most logical thing - watched yet another lovely sunset from the cockpit. Following that, we went to the Perico Loco Bar and had our favorite soup: Xochitl (Zoe-Chee). It's different for each restaurant but primarily a broth with chicken or beef, rice or tortillas, cilantro and tomatoes. Tonight's was chicken and rice and some wonderful spices, very good with a cold cerveza! Back to the boat, showered (Bill went to the marina showers), update the log and to bed. ho hum