21 May 2012 Puerto Escondido to Isla Coronado
PS Have not downsized pics, so pics in the next post!)
As we said....On the road by 0855, passed Kasasa and waved – they’ll be heading out later today, too. Also saw s/v Pura Vida’s dinghy and family as they passed us as we motored out of Puerto Escondido. The winds held at about 8 knots so we motor-sailed north toward Isla Coronado, passing by Loreta and taking advantage of the wifi! Turns out, we had wifi/3G/cell coverage in Isla Coronado from the west anchorage. We did pass another large pod of dolphins that we enjoyed, some jumping and scooting under the bow of the boat. I think they are teasing us! We arrived into the anchorage at 1600 and had an easy hook.
We stayed three nights because we had a nice spot, the weather was great and we swam a few times. Bill also cleaned the bottom of the boat using the huka/regulator/compressor set-up we have (thanks, Earl!). The boat bottom actually wasn’t too barnacled as can happen in warm waters. Boats in the bay with us included s/v Magic Carpet, who stopped by our boat and chatted. They had just completed an island circumnavigation – in their dinghy. There were average 5-6 boats each day with us, some coming, some going.
24 May 2012 Isla Coronado to San Nicolas
The goal today was perhaps Bahia Pulpita with a possible stop at San Juanico of the weather changed – 38 miles. The weather was pretty good, letting us sail for several hours, until the wind dropped. Then Mr. Motor helped us continue on. We did bypass Juanico and considered Pulpita’s north-facing bay, San Nicolas, to protect us from the predicted south winds. As we headed north, the winds were picking up and we were heeling some, not my favorite thing to do! Bill does try to keep the boat level but sometimes….well, it is a sailboat and the wind moves it. By the time we reached the bay, however, the winds were 25-30 knots with lots of big white caps and with the main still up. We needed to get the main sail down before we anchored, which is difficult in high winds as Bill has to go forward and pull the sail down as I try to keep the boat into the wind so the sails are luffing (fluffily flapping with no wind in them – ha!). So we thought about heading to San Sebastian, a small cove/bay community a few miles away. As we read more about the anchorage, tho, we decided to not try it – too narrow, shallow and full of dangerous reefs as one enters. Not in high winds! So we chanced to go back to San Nicolas, got the main down and found a spot to drop the anchor in the wind and waves. Whew. Got it done and we celebrated with a cold beer. By then, the winds were from the east then from the west, not from the south as predicted. So we rocked for 2 days, hoping it would go away. Wind can be so annoying. We noted two more sailboats enter and anchor down the beach and on the second day, a big shrimp boat also came in to get out of the winds.
My birthday! May 25th, also celebrated with two of my first cousins, Renette and Terri. A Red Letter Day! Had a relaxing day, a bit breezy, but did a few projects and we read. Also this year, I will get my social security check in June – yahoo! I earned it and hoping the system stays intact. Bill gave me a gorgeous mermaid clay statue he found in La Paz. She’s perfect: a Mexican mermaid with a shark and a turtle at her feet (fin?tail??) and holding a Koi-like fish. We are the Sharktank, have a desert tortoise at home and raise Koi….
26 May 2012 Bahia San Nicolas to Chivato
Just 43 miles up the road – should take an hour, haha. Silly me. At 3-5 mph and into the north winds, in a sail boat….took us a long day. We left early for us, 0630, and arrived into Punta Chivato’s bay after the sun set. The winds weren’t too bad after we left San Nicolas and Bill was able to motor-sail and make us some water. With the wind on our nose, we had to motor all day. No, that’s slog the last half. We were making from 2-4 knots, into the wind and big waves to go up and over, rocking and rolling all day. Lucky we don’t get sea sick. Bill had to hnad steer a lot because Otto did not like the up, down and side to side rolls. More heeling, too, ugh.
At dusk, we rolled into Punta Chivato, noting 2 other boats and with some wind. But we found a spot to anchor and after two approaches, we were in just as the sun was setting. The first approach got us too close to another boat we were drifting/blowing toward and the steering locked up on me, so Bill helped get us re-positioned. The bay is very shallow and it is unnerving to see less than 8 feet under our keel, knowing it’s getting shallower and there’s a reef in front of the old Chivato hotel.
I made leftover soup with yesterday’s roasted arracharra, potatoes and fresh broccoli – and special spices. Bill thought it was great. Guess my cooking forte is soups. We had hot showers and headed to bed…fairly late by the time dishes and such were done.
The plan is two nights here and then to Santa Rosalia and then home by the end of May. But we’ll watch the weather – which is being rather unpredictable this year! The middle day we are hoping to dinghy to shore and find the taco stand. But guess what? The winds are high again and it makes a difficult dinghy exercise. We’ll see if we can later! Maybe walk around the old hotel. Maybe find John Wayne’s ghost there. Always see staff, no customers and pretty dark at night. Pretty place on a point. Rumor has it that the place has gone from bankrupt to drug cartel ownership to whatever. So we’ll sit here and read, etc. Maybe I’ll work on my jewelry projects.
28 May 2012 Chivato to Santa Rosalia
“Only 27 miles up the sea, Santa Rosalia is the place to be….”. We’re just a few hours away from the Singlar marina in Santa Rosalia. Should have taken 5 hours, but we putzed around with sailing after we went thru Craig’s Channel, the shallow, reefed area between the Baja and San Marcos Island. Then the wind picked up a bit more into the channel but guess what? Right on the nose, of course! We tacked a few times and tried to catch more wind….but after a few hours of sails and beam swells “hobby horsing” us, we realized the time and decided to crank the motor back on. Oh well. We have had more sailing this year than in the past.
We arrived into the Santa Rosalia area with just a main up and waited for the Ferry to approach and enter through the quay wall as we know he “parks” right behind the marina we want. No joy in contacting the marina, no one home. We entered the bay and pulled into a slip easily via Capt Bill; I hopped off and stopped the boat. Still nobody around to assist us on the dock! We did wave and a local fishing boat with 2-3 guys aboard, docked, to possibly grab a line for us but they just looked, no response to our waves….oh well. Locals don’t seem to understand the courtesy of helping a sailboat in. They are on little fishing boats, easily handled and probably wondering “what’s all the fuss about?” with us Gringo sailboats. Three other boats are in the marina, closed up and filling with bird poop. One for sale. Very quiet. The office was closed by the time we arrived, about 6 PM…so the one guard who came out after we arrived took our information and we promised to pay up the next day.
After a short clean up and connecting the boat to power, we walked to town for our favorite Xochitl soup at Terco’s, yum. Beef, fresh cilantro, tortillas, cheese and some awesome seasoning. It was a long day, so we returned and to bed. The next day was boat cleaning - exterior, laundry (so so not so much in San Carlos!), cockpit, etc and another trip to town in the evening for a famous hot dog! Also yum, but not so healthy, haha.
May 30th – we are prepping for the trip to San Carlos and will depart at noon-ish and make an overnight passage so we arrive in daylight. The plan is to anchor a night in Algodones Bay, meet Tom and Joan for cold drinks at the Soggy Peso Bar and bring them aboard for dinner. June 1, we’ll ride around to Marina San Carlos and park the boat for the summer…..so until more excitement….we’ll report that we got in OK….
Hugs to all we know…Linda and Bill