15 April – 5 May 2012
LA PAZ
The Bungee Cord
hooked us into La Paz for nearly a month, once again. It’s hard to say no to an
easy life of a few boat chores, provisioning and restaurants, social and
cultural events and R&R. We had laundry to do, FM3/ Mexican visas and the
Telcel wifi card to renew. Friends were due in as well. Once we arrived back
into La Paz, we made contact with Lisa again and she became our main transport
unless we wanted to get some exercise or walk the malecon.
NOTE:FYI, We met Lisa and John Caruso several years
ago in La Paz, where Lisa and John did some yoga classes with me at Palmira. They were on s/v Andiamo. John died 2 years ago during Loreto Fest and their boat is still at Puerto
Escondido; she will bring it to Palmira in La Paz this coming fall. Once when
John was on our boat, he had a “light bulb” moment when he realized he knew
Earl and Maria, the former owners, and that they had been on the boat
before! Small world. Lisa hasa had an
interesting year between house sitting
and two hip replacements.
The FM3 process
was delayed a week as we found it too early to apply. The process has been
interesting as we usually do it in Agua Prieta, near home – and had a few
hassles with the process there. What we
found in La Paz was a office with true and efficient professionals. We had the
appropriate paperwork and pictures and the bank payment done, turned the
paperwork in April 24th and it was ready in 8 days, as they
predicted. Once we get back to San Carlos, we will be able to apply for our
Senior Card, allowing us some actual “senior discounts” in Mexico - like bus
tickets, prescriptions and such. Supposedly with having the FM3 after 4-5 years,
we will be closer to a semi-permanent status in Mexico.
We
were invited to attend a wonderful Blue Grass concert at La Paz’ music
school. It is an amazing place, hidden
in an older neighborhood off a dirt road…a new building with a wonderful (air
conditioned) auditorium and great acoustics.
Lisa drove 5 of us and there were some local school kids attending as
well as the local officials…and many Gringos.
The group was sponsored by the Mexican government and from
Virginia….very talented group of 4 guys that included bass, mandolin, guitar
and fiddle…and voices. During the show, the cruiser’s Club Cruceros de La paz
received an award for assisting local schools and children with many
scholarships.
Another
event we attended on the malecon (boardwalk on the beach,) was the 477th
celebration of Cortez’ landing onto La Paz beaches and declaring La Paz
for Spain. They did a wonderful
recreation of the event, with dancers, tiki torches, actors and gorgeous costumes. Cortez even arrived via a ship (a fishing panga
with a motor – but they did row in, LOL), strode thru the waves onto shore and
declared ownership as they brought “civilization and religion” to the natives.
The natives did rebel a little, burning the cross. There was music, readings of the tale and much
dancing by the “natives” in the show. It
was a spectacular event to attend!
L
isa
and I did some serious shopping, mostly provisions. But we found fabric,
a dress, some seamstress work, arts and crafts and many lunches. We explored Home depot, the new Liverpool
(like a Nortstrom’s+) as well as Walmart and Sam’s Club. I will miss Lisa down
the road! But she has promised to stop
by our house and visit on her way back to Seattle in June; she’ll drive the
Baja north herself as she has done it several times and feels very comfortable.
The night before we departed, Lisa hosted a pool party at the house she is
house sitting – a small group of 10 or so, pot luck and the pool. It was a
great send-off!
We
also learned about the medical system available to Gringos when Lisa
decided to do a nose dive into the sidewalk as we were heading to The Shack for
dinner. With two new hips, she was protecting herself as she fell and instead,
landed on her left arm, nicked her forehead and ended up with a giant bruise
and sore ribs. A run to the Urgent Care
center where she was declared “not an emergency” (by the desk clerk!) and told to see the
“consultant” at a the AM clinic. So we
drove her home and delivered her to the clinic the next day. X-rays were taken
and she was referred to a ortho specialist, yet another appointment a week away
– which turned out to be her very own ortho surgeon who had done her two hips
last year – he declared her fine and sent her on her way. She is ehaling fast
and sure didn’t let anything stop her driving, dancing and enjoying friends out
and about.
As
far as boat projects, we had fewer this year.
I did get the after head painted and it looks nice and bright and white
once again. Bill finished some wood
staining on the rails and did deck cleaning.
He also pulled the spinnaker out and figured it out so we can try it
next time out. Not many old friends left south, but a few. Kirk on s/v Freedom of Kirkland arrived from
Cabo with his cousin and uncle. We had a
few dinners out and happy hours back and forth, meeting a few other people, as
well. He was in and out for the week, hauled out at Bercovich’s marina and flew
home – all too quickly! But we had some
fun evenings together. He stayed a night aboard with us when he hauled out,
before the bus to Cabo and flying home to still-cold Canada. Our new slip
neighbor at Palmira this year, the catamaran s/v Orion, Mike and Cathy, was also in and out several times,
mostly with guests aboard. They took off
sailing again before we had a chance to visit – but we are hoping to meet them
up on the Baja for a margarita.
We
celebrated Bill BD at Buffalo Ribs and had a wonderful dinner – the ribs
are just outstanding. Mouth-watering and perfectly grilled. We also made a
point to see Alex and Sue’s new Trawler-in-progress, the new m/v
Maitairoa. They went to the darkside
(sailboat to power) last year and brought the boat down this winter. It’s big, much space and they are redesigning
and outfitting it as their home.
NOTE: We did
not see Ana Hall as much as we wanted.
The first week, her niece was visiting and then she flew north for more
treatments and we missed her return. We did stop by the casa once and she was
having her interior walls painted – bright colors for her art work. We also saw
her selling her one-of-a-kind, detailed, hand-made greeting cards at the
Farmer’s Market. She seems to be doing ok and is planning the summer in La Paz.
Ana lost her husband, Steve, last year in La Paz – so has had a rough
year. We all miss
Steve, his big-bear
hugs and smiles.
Daily
life in La Paz becomes a routine, starting at 0800 with the AM Cruiser’s NET on
the radio, catching up on what is happening, who has something to sell for
“coconuts”, where the music is or a food special and locating services for
Gringos. Lost and found, jokes and trivia as well as emergencies are the
highlights. The radio is also our communication system – and we use it
frequently to make plans. Of course,
it’s like the old-fashioned shared phone and everyone and anyone can listen
into any conversation! If you are having work done, meeting for margaritas or
departing – everyone knows! Although we
move from a “hailing” channel” to talk, anyone can “follow” and listen in,
which we call “lurking”. If Susie is shacking with Sam, someone is having boat
work done or the Jones’s are dining with the Smith’s, we all know! It’s a
little cruiser Peyton Place.
With
everything done, partied-out, provisioned and the boat ready, we pulled the
bungee cord off and left the slip on May 6th, with reservations for
next February. Sad to leave but we have great memories, many pictures and
bellies full of beer. Have to work on
that last one as we move north. The goal is to move north slowly, see how far
we can get, seeing new anchorages when we can and not rushing anywhere fast. We
have our San Carlos slip reserved for June 1.
Onward! Linda and Bill
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