19 FEB 2012 Santa Rosalia to Punta Chivato via Craig’s Channel
The Singlar marina at Santa Rosalia is pretty desolate – 4 empty boats, one for sale and one fill of pelican poop. We got up early to depart the 27 miles to Punta Chivato and not a soul in site – except the Baja Ferry behind us. The weather window looked good for heading south. So Bill shoved us off as we backed out and we exited the marina, out the quay wall opening and headed south. A clear, sunny day at 66 degrees and the water, also 66. Bill hauled up the main sail so we would look like a sailboat.
The fastest route is between the Baja and San Marcos Island, through Craig’s Channel – a 5 mile, 16-18 foot deep channel. Some reefs on either side, so watching the depth and the way points are key to NOT finding the reef intimately! We did well! Arrived Chivato at 1600, dropped a hook easily in about 12’ of water off the beach full of Gringo homes. In the bay with us was s/v Saggitaire, who we met in Santa Rosalia at Singlar as well as s/v Silmare. The anchorage stayed quiet and great sleeping.
This is the shell beach spot! We dropped the dinghy in the water the next morning and made a shelling expedition to shore. What finds! I’ll be making jewelry and painting mermaids for years….
21 FEB 2012 Chivato to Burro Bay, Bahia Concepcion
Having already bussed High Jinx’ supplies to them from Santa Rosalia, we weren’t in a big hurry to get to Burro Cove. Looking at a good passage, we pulled up the anchor at Chivato and crossed to Bahia Concepcion anyway. A 21 mile leg ahead, we headed out about 9 AM. We were able to sail well for about an hour, then lost our wind. We started at sunny and 62 degrees and the water up to 69 degrees.
We arrived into Burro Bay and found m/v High Jinx (Jinx and Mad Dog) nestled under the cliff by Baja Mexico’s Highway 1. This is a main route on the Baja and full of traffic – mostly buses and big transport trucks, some with double trailers. The winding roads near the cliffs make it a fairly dangerous road and we feel safer out in the ocean! We had to re-anchor once as the bay has a shallow end. The beach is full of Gringo “huts” – some pretty elaborate, with palapa rooves and some double storey and/or attached to RV’s and trailers. This is where Gary-the-weather-Guru hangs out, in his beach shack. After his morning weather report, he broadcasts “Amazing Grace” over a speaker into the bay – very nice touch. There is also no cell coverage in the Bay – so we remain out of contact during our stay.
Settling in for the evening, we dropped the dinghy off the davits and went to m/v High Jinx for a drink, then to Bertha’s restaurant ashore for dinner. Bill had a great Pescado de Ajo (fresh garlic fish). We crept back to the boat after dark. Bill lit the engine and the generator to check things out and noticed a BIG leak in the engine room. Long storey short, we had a leak in the raw water pump and a broken impellar. Lucky he knows engine stuff! We stayed an extra night in Burro Cove and Bill borrowed Mad Dog’s car for a run to Santa Rosalia to find a part – which he did. I stayed aboard to watch the ship and caught up with some projects. I also made a run in one day with Jinx for provisioning in Mulege, about 8 miles north of Burro Cove; we had breakfast at a delightful hotel (homey, many backpackers) – Las Casitas, I think, and hit several grocery stores and the “dollar” store, as well as an art show with mostly Gringo paintings, jewelry and shell work.
24 FEB 2012 Burro Cove to Santo Domingo, Bahia Concepcion
After a minor engine tweaking, we headed out of Burro Cove about 9 AM to make the run easily out of Bahia Concepcion. It is a 10 mile run to the entrance where a small beach area makes a good overnight before the next leg of the travels. The engine ran well with no leaks noted. A smooth day, we relaxed and enjoyed the ride….watching the engine temperature carefully. The anchorage is very shallow and we noted we were not able to cut the corner, seeing very shallow areas. We found a good holding in 10 feet of water – and were joined later by two boats for the night. A “navy” shower and hair wash made us both feel a little more human. I use the Ma Nature hair dryer! Then a dinner of panko’d chicken, fresh broccoli and curried couscous. OK, we also ate some greasy, fresh tortilla chips I found in Mulege….but yummy.
25 FEB 2012 Santo Domingo to San Juanico
Up early, before sunrise, we hopped out of bed at 0630, started the engine and pulled out of the bay to round the peninsula end. Coffee and breakfast came later! At the tip, Linda noted the temperature gage rise rapidly; Bill had started to use the water maker, which caused a drop in the priming water in the raw water pump (are you asleep yet?) and the engine to over-heat. So once that was solved, back on the road south. Both the main sail and the jib are up, giving the engine a little help. Winds are light so we may have to do more motoring to get to San Juanico – a 47 mile run.
On our way to Puerto Escondido to wait out a wind and perhaps some repairs!
Linda and Bill